Feb
28
2009
The thrifty Italian Jewish cook wasted no part of the chicken. And it’s easy for us to buy inexpensive giblets for this rich and delectable risotto. Donatella Pavoncello, in her delightful Dal 1880 ad oggi: la cucina dalla mia famiglia, cooks the rice in the giblet sauce and spoons some reserved sauce on top. I find it’s easier to make the sauce, cook the rice, and then combine the two. That way you don’t run the risk of gummy overcooked rice. Incidentally, this sauce is also wonderful tossed with pappardelle.
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Oct
05
2008
Almost every Chinese restaurant serves some version of Kung Pao Chicken. Most, in my opinion, miss the mark They tend to rely on thick, brown sauce with some spice added and a mélange of various vegetables. I feel that a truly excellent Kung Pao should be much more distinctive. The peanuts should be very fresh. The major ingredients should not be swimming in sauce, but rather flavored by the sauce. I actually use no vegetables except the scallions. The result is a Kung Pao that will knock your socks off with great flavor and texture.
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